![]() A Cup type or CBN wheel will be nice, but is not necessary. I show here that an ordinary grinding stone can be used. It can be seen that the stone will only grind one of the two flutes. The single knob at the back will adjust the whole table forward and backwards. The front knob will adjust the fence left and right for a fraction of a milimeter per turn. You can see the fence is locked so that the block can be pushed forward and backwards at exactly the same angle. It is set up that the cutting edge is parallel with the table floor, so that I can rotate the block 180 degrees so that both flutes are grounded exactly the same.Īnother view. I have set the 6mm two flute cutter in the block. I have also added a bearing block to the friction knob for strength. A wider fence will not have an influence on the rig’s performance or ability. The fence is wider than the original plan, due to non-availability of the correct material. I must still add the handled lever studs. As said, it may be an overkill, but I may need it in future. The table can now be rotated, Tilted forward, backward, right and left for almost 90 degrees. I added a few features similar than the advanced rest. The upright pillar is shortened and rotated 90 degrees, seen from the top. I used longer M3 screws and therefore the tapping was easier and also stronger due to the longer thread. I have drilled the M3 holes right through the table and could use a one tap set. The fact that the dials are brass is not changing the appearance and neither the abilities. If it is not an overkill, I have the ability. It may be an overkill, but I have not used the design before and will only know later. I will change the design to allow more extreme movement abilities. Those who made this rest, or those who studied the design in detail, will notice that I turned the table 90 degrees. I will at a later stage replace it with a proper steel one, to the longer length. I made the dial knobs from brass and the carrier as well due to the shortage of material for the carrier. The Rest mounted on the pillar, showing the bottom side. It is working like a charm and was inexpensive. I purchased a ball racer and annealed it before I drilled and tapped the hole to M6 standards. Here in South Africa, the plastic Phenol balls are only available in quantities of 10 and therefore very expensive. The making of the rest is straight forward. My progress on the making of the rest can be seen here: ![]() Hall’s web page, the article is described, as well as a few videos are presented on how to use the rest and the various jigs. The book give a full plan and description with photographs on how to make it, as well as on how to use it. It can be found by doing a search on the Internet. ![]() You have to purchase your own copy of the book by Harold Hall to get the plans of the rest, rigs and the adaption of the bench grinder. This tool rest allows you to be able to present your tools to a grinder wheel at the correct angle by way of clamping with the jig. No milling machine is needed, although the making will be easier if you do have a milling machine, or access to one. This tool rest can be made on a lathe only. I decided on the basic tool rest of Mr Harold Hall. I decided that I agree with a lot of people who sharpen their own equipment with the proper tool rest and jigs. I have read a lot of articles, together with my own experience in cutting my own lathe tools and my own experience on my drill bit sharpening. I do not have the funds to purchase a tool & cutter grinder, nor have the time to build one. Check the web to see that it is centered and not too wide.As the home user of a lathe and milling Machine, I have long ago identified the need to be able to sharpen my own milling cutters and properly sharpen drill bits and lathe tools. Finally, touch the cutting edge on both sides to the wheel and roll the drill to smooth the top of the drill from the cutting edge over the shoulder and off the back end. Make the angle a little steeper and touch the area behind the cutting edge to the wheel on both sides to reduce the shoulder on both sides. Touch the other cutting edge to the wheel. Rotate the drill 180 degrees without changing the angle. In summary, hold the drill at the right angle. Sometimes I need to sharpen one a couple of times to get it close enough to right. A couple of years ago I saw a video that made sharpening drills by hand easy and have been doing that ever since. Another option would be to get a new abrasive wheel and use you old wheel for rough work. I know that is not recommended practice, but you can probably get a way with it for sharpening a few drills now and then. It seems one option would be to remount the sharpening guide so the bit touches the side of the grinding wheel. I am glad to know you have been able to use this.
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